Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Pizza Dough Mixing

For those of you not taking notes at the workshop on the 18th, here is the mixing schedule that we used for the pizza dough:
  • mix pre-ferment + flour + water (no salt) on low for 4 minutes
  • 20 minutes bulk ferment, covered
  • add salt and mix on medium 6-8 minutes
  • 45-60 minutes bulk ferment
  • One fold
  • Return to bowl for 30-45 minutes
  • Quick shape & divide
  • shape into 10oz. balls, cover and retard at 40° for 90 minutes
  • pull the dough from the retarder 1-1.5 hours before baking.
And here are some other notes:
  • Desired dough temperature is 76°
  • Hydration was 70%
  • Salt was 0.5% (a scant tablespoon)
  • Friction factor for the KitchenAid mixers is about 20°
We rushed the retard part on Saturday.  As a result, our dough developed a little less flavor than it might have with a longer retard, but gluten development didn't suffer at all, so, yes, you can push the times.

I usually do a 70% hydration with high-protein flour (Central Milling High Mountain, Giusto's Ultimate Performer, or Tipo 00 pizza flour will all work).  Avoid adding flour after the first mix; it's okay to adjust consistency by adding water during either mix.

I posted the XLS file that I use to calculate specific dough proportions on the LA Bread Bakers meetup page under "files."

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Desired Dough Temperature (and other stories)

The issue of "desired dough temperature" just came up on the LA Bread Bakers page so I thought I'd post my interpretations of Jeffrey Hamelman's formula(s) from his book "Bread."


It's pretty simple concept with two key variations: there are separate formulas for calculating dough that uses commercial yeast, and dough that uses a levain, poolish, starter, or sponge.  All the formula does is compare the average temperature (in Fahrenheit) of the target desired dough temperature, to the average of the temperatures of the components of the bread.  The output of the calculation is the water temperature.


The calculation also takes into account a nifty fudge-factor called "Friction Factor" which is different for hand mixing and for each type of mixer.  Mixer manufacturers often publish the "friction factor" for their mixer.  For example, my Electrolux is usually listed as having a friction factor of 6°, whilst I usually use 12° for handmixing.  Some standing mixers can impart as much as 24° into the dough during mixing.


To do the calculations you will need:
  • a food thermometer with a range between 40° and 200° (a barrista-style one works well)
  • some way to measure the ambient temperature of the dough prep space
  • the estimated friction factor of your mixer (use 24° if you don't know)
  • the desired dough temperature (use 76° if you don't know)
  • a calculator and/or paper and pen
It might seem kind of complicated, but in practice it's straightforward.

Here are the formulas: (Because this is computer-land, the * means multiply, everything else is a minus)


Formula for bread with a starter:
(Desired Dough Temperature * 4) 
- Ambient Room Temperature 
- Starter Temperature 
- Flour Temperature 
- Friction Factor      
= Water Temperature

For dough with commercial yeast:
(Desired Dough Temperature * 3) 
- Ambient Room Temperature 
- Flour Temperature 
- Friction Factor      
= Water Temperature


Example for a dough with starter:
Desired Dough Temperature = 76°
Ambient Room Temperature = 72°
Starter Temperature = 74°
Flour Temperature  = 68°
Friction Factor = 6°


(DDt*4)-ARt-St-Ft-FF=Water Temperature
(76*4)-72-74-68-6 = Water Temperature
304-72-74-68-6 = 84


So in this case you would want to add water that is about 84°


Once the dough is fermenting, take the temperature again.  If the dough temperature is above or below the target, you can adjust the friction factor up or down a bit to compensate.  For example, I use a friction factor of 4° for dough made in my particular mixer and usually end up with a final dough temperature of between 75° and 77° for dough with about 70% hydration.